Tekin has continued to provide their customers and loyal esc users with the tools to create whatever type of throttle feel they could want. I realize that sometimes these can be confusing as well as some people perhaps misinformed so let me go over a few of them and explain them in plain easy terms and examples.
Current limiter is a setting that allows the esc to ease the power being applied to the motor. If your CL (current limiter) is at 100 that’s considered “off” and no CL will be utilized. At 80, you’re getting 80% of the available current applied to the motor. Now if you have a condition where the car is simply too powerful at the lower parts of the throttle, current limiter is your adjustment. It can help control wheel spin, wheelies, and just too much power overall. CL does NOT limit top speed, it does however smooth out the power at the lower stages of throttle.
Throttle minimum is a great adjustment to fine tune your throttle feel or “punch” feel. Throttle minimum by default is set pretty conservatively since our esc’s can be used from anything from a Rock Crawler to a Modified TC car. T-Min (throttle minimum) controls the initial power being applied to the motor. The lower then number; the less power is applied initially to the motor. The opposite is true at higher settings. Now I personally setup my cars both mod and stock with this setting individually. What I mean by that is that I take each car, race ready and set it on the ground. I then touch the trigger and when I KNOW 100% that I’m inducing throttle(verified by the esc’s led moving from led #4 to led #1) I want that car to begin rolling..Very slowly of course. I don’t want it to “hum” or stall out, rock back and forth or simply not move. I also don’t want it lunge forward too hard. So if your car is “stalling” at that initial trigger press, increase the T-min until it no longer does. Typically on say a 2wd Stock mid motor buggy with a free drivetrain, 8-10 will work. The same car in rear motor configuration for example with the same gearing may only need 6-8 to attain the same feel. A 1/12 17.5 Stock pan car that runs nearly a 1:1 drive ration may need something much higher; 15-20 for example. Many factors affect this setting: Motor type, motor timing, gearing, car weight, transmission style, radio system, and driver preference are all factors here. No setting is “magic” and each one varies from car to car, driver to driver. This setting however is a favorite of the stock driver as a higher setting often feels like a “punchier” car to the driver.
This setting is nothing more than an adjustment that allows the esc to loosen or tighten the radios accepted neutral setting. A higher setting means the radios neutral signal can be more generally accepted by the esc. A lower setting means we must see neutral at a very narrow area to accept it. Older radios can “signal wander” and may require a higher setting. Proof of this is a condition where the esc will not “arm” because the neutral signal is not where we expect to see it after radio calibration. Some esc’s wander digitally due to heat in the radio/receiver and can signal wander. This can affect drag brake, and push control if the esc doesn’t see neutral while you’re driving. SO if you have erratic drag brakes, try opening up this setting.